Polarising Filter & Rangefinder Cameras - A simple solution

Unlike SLR cameras in any format we use to make photographic images, the rangefinder camera "robs" us of one nicety - WYSIWYG - what you see is what you get. Better put, users of rangefinder cameras know well that what you see may very well not be what you get! We never get to see through our enthusiastically purchased lenses!

This characteristic of rangefinder cameras often requires users to be on their toes: you may induce flare in bright light; you may introduce optical distortion by the angle at which you shoot your subject; the effect of a filter may or may not be what you plan it to be.

Using a polarising filter on a rangefinder camera has an added disadvantage - you need to see exactly what you will get because the degree of rotation of the filter's front element determines how much polarisation takes place (visualised by darkening of the scene). Of course, you can't determine that with a rangefinder camera, simply because you can't look through the lens (often called the "taking" lens) itself.

Of course if your purpose with a polarising filter is more to do with elimination of reflections, this solution will not be 100% reliable because there is less noticeable reduction in the light value change. This solution is aimed more at those looking for bluer skies.

However, the solution is so simple and does not require the use of huge filters to enable you to peep through the corners; it does not require specialised and horribly expensive filter types as made by Leica. Not at all.

The solution is to let the camera's meter tell you when the polarisation is maximised. You see Polarising filters cut out light by an effective 2 stops. So if that is the case, it stands to reason that while you rotate the filter, the camera's built-in meter will register 1 or 2 stops of light reduction (the colour of the filter accounts for about 1 - stops and the polarising effect adds to that another stop or so) - the displayed shutter speed (in the case of aperture priority automatic exposure metering) will suddenly drop as your rotation of the filter positions the outer lens element at the optimal point.

But, of course, if your camera does not have TTL metering, it's back to the drawing board!

So, it's not always necessary to buy expensive solutions; nor is it necessary to first put the filter to your eye, adjust the outer lens and then hold it tight while you struggle to fit the filter to the camera (and likely make a slight adjustment the ruins the full effect).

In summary, just buy the normal filter you prefer that fits your lens; put it on; hold the camera to the subject and rotate the outer element while you watch the exposure readout; when the exposure drops suddenly, you can bet the filter is optimally set.

Try it out and you will be amazed as was I. Now I have no trouble with polarising filters on rangefinder cameras.



Photos and text copyright of f8Vision and SimonPG